Alphabet Soup and More......

A Beginner’s Guide to Sheltie “Lingo” and Terms

An Informational Guide To The Sheltie Breed, including health issues, training methods, breaking down the AKC standard to laymen’s terms, explaining the show ring and more.

 Written By Daveena Michael, RiverDance Shelties

As with any new hobby or venue, there is usually a vast amount of information to learn and assimilate, especially if you decide to delve into the sheltie breed and the many venues they do and can participate in.  The Sheltie is one of the top breeds that participate in performance venues, such as, agility, obedience, tracking, and fly ball.  They are also a long time favorite in the breed ring and as a family pet.  Their undying loyalty, intelligence and longevity appeals to a wide audience. 

 Originally from the Shetland Islands and upon arriving in Scotland at the end of the 18^th century with the advent of the collie influence/mix, the sheltie did not arrive in the United States until the early 1900s, thus the Sheltie is still a relatively young breed who to this day does not breed true.  The breed also has a myriad of health issues that still the plague the breed today. 

That is why we decided to try to provide an educational page for both novices and old timer’s alike in an attempt to further educate ourselves on this wonderful breed.  If you can provide us with more information than we have covered and would like to add something, please feel free to send your addition to us to use!  I’m still a relative novice in the breed and can use all the help I can get!  We’re going to be trying to cover a broad range of subjects, to include health issues, show terms, and more.   We look forward to submitting one to two subjects per week. 

Chapter One

~ Hunting For That Perfect Sheltie and the terms you need to know to make a sound purchase ~

“From the Beginning”

When looking for a sheltie puppy or adult there are certain terms thrown around that perhaps are unknown to most except those that are already long into the breed.  It is essential that you ask a potential seller about health testing, temperament, and the parent’s history, as well as, the seller’s.  Below are terms for testing and show terms that will help further explain your potential sheltie’s history and ability to become a productive member of your new home.  

1.  Bitch - A girl sheltie in gender.  It’s not considered a “dirty word” when talking about a female dog.  Once you get used to it you won’t even raise your eyebrows or giggle I assure you. 

2.  Brood Girl - A girl who is used primarily as a “producer” and for whatever reason is not shown in the conformation ring but is still thought of as worthwhile to breed. 

3.  Stud Dog - A male sheltie in gender who is available in general to fully tested bitches of merit from reputable breeders.   Usually stud dogs have been fully tested for hips, eyes and vWd, and thyroid.  We will explain these terms further down the page.

4.  Proven - A bitch or stud dog who has been successful in producing a litter of puppies,  “unproven” means they have not been bred and thus are less reliable in knowing the outcome of the litter. 

5.  Whelping - When “whelping” a litter of puppies it simply means the bitch is having the puppies while the breeder stands by to give assistance and help if needed. 

6.  In Whelp - means the bitch is pregnant. 

7.   Socialization - The word "socialization" is thrown around quite a bit when buyers and sellers get together to look and discuss a sheltie puppy or a sheltie adult that is either for sale, up for stud, or being sold for breeding purposes.  Good socialization starts though at the puppy stage and is very important to the puppy's continued well being and soundness of mind as they grow.  A well socialized puppy has been handled, cuddled, loved and should be exposed to a myriad of experiences by 8 - 12 weeks old BEFORE they leave for their new homes.  

8.  Tested Parents - This means both the stud and the dam of the litter have had all their “testing” done.  Be warned that just because someone says their breeding stock has been tested does not mean that they passed all their testing!  Ask to see all pertinent certifications.

a.  Testing for hips - At two years old the bitch or stud dog is taken to their vets for a x-ray of their hip joints and the report and x-rays are then sent to the OFA (Orthopedic Foundation of America) for evaluation.  The results vary from Excellent to Fair, or the worst scenario is for the dog’s hips to be evaluated to have hip dysplasia.  This term means the hip joints do not fit together correctly and is a very undesirable result.  Dogs and bitches that have hip dysplasia will usually in their lifetime require surgery or medicinal intervention and should never be bred.  Hip dysplasia is most times a very debilitating condition and can be quite painful for the dog, as well as, cut down on their longevity.  Surgical and medicinal intervention can possibly help though in making the dog’s life more comfortable and productive.  Every case is unique and requires a one on one evaluation by a board certified Orthopedic Veterinarian. 

b.  Testing for eye disease - At anytime or age your sheltie can be tested for eye abnormalities, such as, collie eye syndrome, or other diseases of the eye, by a CERF participating vet opthomologist.  You then can send in the report to the CERF (Canine Eye Registration Foundation) for evaluation and certification.  A CERF exam should be done yearly. 

c.  Testing for thyroid abnormalities - Testing can be done by your vet to evaluate your sheltie’s thyroid levels.  There are various levels of testing that can be done and usually shelties that are going to be bred or show have a “full panel” done.  Even further testing can be done as well. 

d.  Testing for vWd - VonWillebrand’s Disease is a bleeding disorder that can plague shelties.  Testing can be performed by your vet or a sheltie can be “clear by parentage” which means both parents have been tested vWd free and it is very unlikely it could be passed on to their offspring. 

e.  Health Warranty or Guarantees - New Dog Lemon Laws have breeder’s improving their warranties on what they sell and is also helping to clamp down on BYBs (Back Yard Breeders) who rarely do appropriate testing of their breeding stock or contribute to the improvement of the breed.  A written contract usually outlines all testing done on parents and terms/conditions of the sale.  Read this document very carefully and don’t sign until you have gone over every line with the seller and both agree to all terms involved.  Know your warranty/contract backwards and forwards to ensure you are protected from a sick sheltie or undesirable surprises.  Also get to know your individual state’s Dog Lemon Laws.

   f.  Temperament Testing - Every breeder should know how to test their puppies for what type of temperament they might have and how this effects which puppy is best for what venue or new owner.  If they are not good at temperament testing then they should have a friend or a trainer come visit and perform various testing steps to help determine where each puppy would find it’s best fit. 

Testing can include tests for submissiveness or dominance issues, confidence, ability to bond with humans, ability to withstand distractions with ease, or skittishness, etc.  If every litter before sold had correct sheltie temperament testing done I feel there would be far less shelties in rescues today.  Often times people come to pick out pets who automatically feel sorry for that “shy” one who stays in the corner or the “first to come to you” puppy who possibly is too bold and active for a quiet pet home while the quiet shy one certainly is not a top candidate for a loud and rowdy family.  Temperament testing by a qualified individual I believe should be mandatory for all breeders to have done before any puppies are sold.

Where does one begin to look for their sheltie? 

1.  Never the local newspapers!  Rarely does a show breeder advertise in this type of venue. 

2.  Website Boards - Sheltie Show breeders have setup several website boards with their puppies/adults for sale. 

3.  Word of Mouth - recommendations from friends and colleagues.

4.  Attend Conformation Shows - This is a great opportunity to meet and visit with breeder’s in your area. 

5.  Local Sheltie Club - Most clubs have a list of members you can email or call and often times they also have a local puppy/dog available coordinator for your area who will know who has what available.

   6.  Visit your local training facility for dogs-  PetsMart type classes will rarely have you meeting show people but if you look in your local yellow pages or simply google or yahoo local dog training clubs works as well to find a training center near you. 
 

Chapter Two

~ Coat Colors and Why ~

Coat colors in shelties vary and are according to the standard acceptable or disqualified.  There are genetically only actually two colors, sable and black, with other factors affecting these two basic coat colors.

A.  Sable and White - Sable ranges from golden through red to deep mahogany with an overlay of black.  Sables can be "pure for sable" (carrying two sable genes), or "tri" or "bi" factored.   (those carrying one gene for sable and one recessive gene for black) 

B.  Tricolor - Predominantly black with tan and white markings.  Genetically tricolors carry two genes for tricolor, or one for tricolor and one for bicolor. 

C.  Bi Blacks - The bi black is black with white markings.  (No tan) 

D.  The Blue Merle - Merling is created by a dilution factor acting on the basic coat color to produce a mottled effect.  Genetically blue merle is not a color but a pattern. 

E.  Bi Blue - As with the tricolor, the bi blue merle displays only white markings, no tan.  Genetically they re believed to have two genes for the bi black and one for the merling. 

F.  Sable Merle - Sable merle results from the merling gene acting on the sable coat.  Blue eyed sable merles are not acceptable in the show ring. 

G.  White Factor Whites - The current standard penalizes any white sheltie in the show ring if more then 50% white.  The color headed white is genetically a sable, black, or merle dog on which the white factoring has created a white or spotted body coloration.  They are produced by mating two shelties carrying the white factor. 

H.  Double Merle or Homozygous Whites - This color results from breeding two merles, thus resulting to the offspring two merle genes.  This color of sheltie also can increase the chance of blindness and deafness. 

I. Cryptic Blue - Cryptic blue are blue merles with a large amount of black which produces as blues.  Thank you DanaQ for your note making clear the common mistake that cryptic blues produce as tri dogs. For more information on Coat Colors and Pattern please refer to the wonderful article by Cheryl Anderson  Theories of Color and Pattern Dominance in Shelties.

J.  The White Factor - The white factor determines the amount of white on the body from the neck back, excluding the collar. 

K.  The Irish Pattern - This factor controls the lovely white collars, chest, legs, and tail tip.  It is not connected to the White Factor. 

L.  Brindle - A color that is considered a disqualification.  
 

Chapter Three

The Sheltie is extremely loyal, intelligent and responsive to his owner.  They are enthusiastic and playful when you are; unobtrusive when you are busy; concerned when you are ill or blue and eager to please.  They are hard workers and live to please their owners.  Correct sheltie character and temperament is tantamount in regard to the breed standard. 

            With regard toward the sheltie for correct body structure it is very important to know the AKC Standard for the breed. You can view the standard on AKC’s official website (akc.org) but what we’re going to try to do is break a lot of the terms down to Laymen’s terms. 

            1.  Correct Head Structure - The Sheltie’s head is like a beautiful sculpture, smooth and clean.  (Thus the term “chiseled”, i.e, chiseled out of one piece material such as stone) The head should be refined and its shape, when viewed from top, is a long blunt wedge tapering slightly from ears to nose.  Top of the skull should be flat.  Cheeks should be flat and should merge smoothly into a well-rounded muzzle.  Skull and muzzle of equal length.  Eyes medium size with almond shaped rims, set somewhat obliquely in the skull.  All of the above can lend to or takes away from “sheltie expression”as explained below. 

                        a.  Sheltie Expression - When looking at a sheltie head on in the face, the “expression” is regarded as a the “whole picture” so to speak, wherein the eyes should be correctly shaped and set, along with being soft and sweet to look at, (the “AAAHHH” factor) yet questioning, showing intelligence, while the ears should be placed on the top of the head with a nice tip, muzzle should be “mushy”, as well as, having a nice finish of underjaw, with a tight lipline, all help to encompass the whole picture of correct sheltie expression.    

To better understand this part of the standard it is best to view photos of correct sheltie head profiles and hopefully have a chance to actually put your hands on a sheltie head with these virtues.  Feeling a sheltie’s head that has correct structure will help bring the standard’s words to life.  In fact most of the official standard is easier to understand I believe through pictures and hands on experience.  

B.  Size - The standard calls for the sheltie to be 13 to 16 inches tall at the shoulder.  This is easily measured with a wicket and by placing the bar of the wicket directly on top of the shoulder bones (if need be hair can be parted to the skin) with the dog standing naturally and by holding the bottom of the wicket perpendicular to the ground from the top of the shoulder blades, with forelegs parallel to line of measurement.    Height below or over the desired range is a disqualification. 

Size can be very important in placing your sheltie in the correct classes in performance venues, such as, agility.  In regard to the conformation rings be aware that the AKC will only allow your sheltie to be “measured out” no more then three times before disqualifying it from showing in the conformation ring for it’s lifetime.  If you feel the judge did not measure your sheltie correctly then you must make your intentions known to the judge while the dog is still in the ring and you do have the right to appeal their measurement to the AKC. 

But it is best to measure and re-measure your sheltie if it is close to either end of the scale spectrum for accuracy.  It also doesn’t hurt to have different friends measure them as well.  There are many styles of wickets out there but a fixed metal 16" training wicket or an official AKC fixed wicket the same as the judge’s use are best to insure an accurate measurement.  It is unfair to the breed to show a dog who has been taught to “stand on their tippy toes”, or to “slouch to fit into the standards” official range.  Size has always been a problem in the breed so it is important not to perpetuate it by breeding or showing shelties that are under or over the standard. 

C.  Coat - The coat should be double, the outer coat consisting of long, straight, harsh hair.  The undercoat is short, furry and so dense it provides the outer layer a “stand off” quality.  Faults are short or flat coats, or being wavy, curly, soft or silky.  A Sheltie’s coat should “fit” the dog’s body to show off their outline.  The correct “harsh” double coat is unfortunately hard to find today in the breed as it once was.  I think Mother Nature has her hand in this as much as any other issue.  The breed on average is no longer standing guard over sheep for months at a time with little shelter and I simply feel it has adapted to it’s new environment.  Even shelties who still herd rarely have to live in the same conditions their ancestors did nearly a century ago.  Certainly hereditary factors come into play as well on this issue. 

D.  Colors - Major Faults are over 50% white and brindle colors are a disqualification. 

E.  Ears - ears should be small and flexible, carried 3/4 erect, with tips breaking forward.  They should also be well set on the top of the head.  Faults are “hound dog ears”, “prick ears”, “bat ears”, or twisted in anyway.  Correct ear placement and size are a very intricate part of “sheltie expression”.   Correct ears are also unfortunately a rarity w/o human intervention today and most sheltie ears have at one time or another been braced, taped or glued to ensure ears are within the standard for the conformation ring.  A true natural ear is a thing of beauty when you can find it though and contributes greatly to what is deemed “Sheltie Expression”.  (Explained above)

F.  Neck - Necks should be muscular, arched, and of sufficient length to carry the head proudly.  

A more detailed explanation of all aspects of correct temperament and structure is available on the AKC website and in many sheltie breed books, such as, “Sheltie Talk” which are available on this website.                                               

Chapter Four

~ Common Show Terms Interpreted ~

Did you ever attend a dog show or match and hear terms thrown about by spectators and exhibitors alike, such as, gait, bad rear, good rear, bad front, straight front, toeing out, toeing in, crab walking, high in the rear, good topline, beautiful eye, etc.?   Or my dog has only one major left to get to be finished?  And you wonder just what the dog has to finish and why?  

Understandably standing on the outside looking in is a hard place to be at any time of your life, let alone at a dog show! They can be quite an intimidating place to be.   

  Everywhere you look, important looking people in suits and ties (or some wear  whatever they feel like, I once attended a show where a woman had on a loud purple outfit with matching feathers in her hair???) and their dogs are milling frantically about, throwing chalk to the wind, blow dryers buzzing, clippers clipping, bait being thrown into the mouths of handlers so they look like a bunch of chipmunks, (I always wondered why myself keeping bait in a pocket isn’t good enough?) and then trying to get to the correct ring, at the correct time, and grabbing your arm band in time, and at the same time hoping the dog won’t get a lollipop stuck in his coat before you can get it into the ring.  (Those spectators have a way of letting their kids do stuff like this!!) I always thought dog shows should ban anything human under three feet from attending but “oh well”....there are worse things!   

First and foremost, don’t feel intimidated, because everyone had to start somewhere at sometime!  And always remember to  keep dog showing into perspective.  It’s suppose to be FUN! Below are some common terms and what they mean. 

1. AKC All Breed Show - This show is open to all AKC registered breeds of dog who are intact or unless otherwise disqualified to show in AKC venues. 

2. AKC Specialty Show - This show is open only to the particular breed who the show is being held for.  Usually sponsored by a local breed club this particular type of show is more geared toward showing off your dogs to your peers in the breed and for the possibility of gaining a major since these type of shows have a much higher entry then at All Breeds in your particular breed such as shelties.  It’s also a chance to have “Puppy Sweepstakes” classes which has no points but is a good way to gain experience and confidence in your puppies, as well as, have fun showing them off! 

3. AKC Performance Events - Events such as agility, obedience, tracking, and flyball.  I will outline titles later. 

Agility is fast becoming one of the top dog sports in the country if it isn’t already.  Agility is competing with your dog around a given course that can include jumps, tunnels, A-Frames, dog walks, teeter totters and it’s a dog sport you can do together!  Dogs win points toward gaining titles by running times and accuracy of use on each piece of equipment in that time. 

There are varying size classes and each title to be gained has varying and increasingly difficult courses to get through.    It is a wonderful sport for any dog but the sheltie aspires to it.  Shelties are one of the top competing breeds in this performance venue.

There is also an increasing amount of interest in the UKC sponsored conformation and performance dog events.  I do not have much information to pass on to this regard since I have never attended a UKC show but friends have and they absolutely love showing in this club.  If anyone wants to write in and let us know how a UKC show works for points and classes that would be wonderful!  I understand they also have a very informative website to view. 
 

Chapter Five

~ What Happens In The Conformation Show Ring Once You Get There? ~

Having a very short career in the ring trying to handle my own sheltie was enough scare for me to know that I needed help and quickly!  Not only was I complete novice the first time I took my dog into the ring, I was a klutzy one as well! 

First, I found out too late, I needed an arm band my first time in.  I guess I thought the judge would know me by face and my dog as well without one!  Actually I just forgot with all nerves buzzing away!  Definitely panic attack time!!!  To this day I keep reminding myself I have other talents and this just isn’t one of them. :O) 

Second time in, my dog got his head caught in the fencing while I was “watching the judge”.  The ONE thing I remembered from my handling class was to keep your eye on the judge so you didn’t miss his/her instructions or what they wanted you to do by a bend of their finger, waive of their arm or a raised eyebrow.  (Oh boy!)  So while I was watching the judge my dog decided he had enough of it all and he tried to escape by jumping through the ring fencing and thus got his head stuck in trying to do so.  I was totally unaware and heard a roar of laughter go up around me and behind me.  Was my skirt stuck in my waist band and my butt was slapping in the wind? (As a lot of us have seen unfortunately happen) or what?  I could see no problems for the laughter UNTIL I tried to find my dog who I now noticed wasn’t where he was suppose to be.  I turn around and there he was butt in the ring while his front was out the other side.  And he was STUCK!  With the help of the ringside spectators on that side of the ring we did manage finally to push his head back through to my side.  I doubt many could top that one except for a fellow handling class woman who stuffed so many hot dogs into her mouth she looked like a seal at a aquarium show and to top it off she fell face forward while going around and all those little hot dog bites flying out of her mouth upon impact like a geyser, which of course her dog stopped to consume while she still lay almost comatose on the floor.  Now that was memorable!  (She was fine by the way) 

So obviously with this good beginning and shows to follow that were just as devastating I turned my dogs over to the professionals when the time came for them to go out again as adults.             
But there are still terms you need to know to follow what’s going on even if you have someone else doing the handling. 

1. Arm Band - Every exhibitor must wear his or hers arm band on the left arm or judge’s side while competing in the ring.  You usually pick up your band ringside from the ring steward while waiting to go into the ring.  Give yourself time in case there is a line.  Rubber bands are available with the band.  Five to ten minutes before class time is a good rule of thumb. 

2. The Table Exam - In the sheltie breed they are examined by the judge on the table while the dog is stacked in a good position that shows off their outline to it’s best extent.  The judge is looking at this point for the feel of good structure, to include, examination of the front and rear structure, neck arch and length, tail length and placement, (tip should at least hit the hock joint) head structure, correct bite, outline, expression, correct eye and standing back and looking over the dog as “whole picture” once done with the physical examination. 

Now let’s break this down into pieces and explain them further. 

A.  On The Table - Breeds of dogs are either stacked on the table or floor depending on what their individual standard calls for.  The table is a standard grooming table. 

B.  Stacked - Stacking a dog means physically putting the dogs legs and body into a stance that will show off their outlines and best features to a judge.  Most dogs are “stack and table” trained before they hit the show ring in either handling classes, matches or at home.  There are many tricks to the trade to make a dog looks it’s best by the way the lead on the neck is held or how you place their legs and tail.  Shelties often stack themselves quite naturally and only need a few adjustments once on the table if trained properly beforehand. 

They should show no lack of confidence and should not mind someone putting their hands in their mouths to check bites and feeling of their testicles if a boy.  They should be friendly but not overly so on the table.  They should show no fear. 

C. Bite - A good scissor bite is essential to be successful in the conformation ring and breeding program.  Any signs of missing teeth, dirty teeth, under or over bites, lance canines or other malocclusions of the bite are all faults the judge is looking for and will consider as faults to keep in mind later on when making his/her final choice for the points.  Any dog that has a bad bite should be eliminated from a reputable breeding program.  Dirty teeth are unnecessary and all show dogs should have professionally cleaned teeth before even stepping into a ring.  Simple things as this could count against your dog as the ultimate winner who gets the points for the day. 

D.  The “Down and Back” - When the judge asks you to go “down and back” it means a straight walk/jog/run out to the right edge of the ring, a nice turn, and coming straight back to the judge, and giving enough space between your dog and the judge, to allow for a nice stack.  Sometimes the judge will have you go a “down and back” in the middle of the ring rather then going up and down the right side.  But the normal procedure is to go up and down the right side of the ring. 

E.  The “Triangle” - The most common pattern in the conformation ring which requires you to go up the right side to the corner, make a nice left turn, and instead of turning back to the judge as the “Down and Back”, you turn left and go straight to the left side of the ring and then make another nice turn halfway left and then head back to the judge in a straight line on the middle mat.  Imagine a triangle shape  in your head and you have it.  Luckily there are mats on the floor to help keep you and your dog in straight lines and knowing where you are expected to go next.  Always when returning to the judge give enough stopping room between you and the judge so that the judge can see your dog stacked at enough distance to appreciate it more.  Stack the dog with it’s best attributes toward the judge.          

F.  The “L Pattern” - I have never seen the L pattern asked for in a ring unless it was Jr. Handling.  I have not seen the pattern since my daughter was in Jr’s and 4-H.  A good example of ring patterns is in Sheltie Talk.  Or on the AKC website. 

G.  The “Go Around” - This mans literally to go around the ring fully with or without your class and continue until you come to the end of the line.  Most times you “go around” as a class together, then wait in line so every dog can be examined on the tale, do a triangle or up and back, and then the judge often has the entire class or her first cut go around again together. 

H.  Classes and Class Placements - In shelties there are a myriad of classes and can have a change of offerings from ABs to Specialty Shows.  These are the general classes offered. 

1.  Puppy Classes divided into sexes - 6-9 mo, 9-12 mo, and 12-18 mo are usually offered. 

2.  American Bred - A sheltie who was born in the U.S. 

3.  Open Sable Bitch - For the most experienced/mature and point ready girls.

4.  Open Sable Males - Again, for the most experienced/mature and point ready boys.

5.  Bred By Exhibitor - Shelties who have been bred by their owner/handlers. 

6.  Open Blue - Reserved for blue girls. 

7.  Open Black - Reserved for the tri and bi black girls.

9.  Best in Breed - Reserved for Champions

10.Veterans Classes - usually there is two age groups for veterans and most are finished Champions. 

11.Winners Bitch - The girl who wins the points and has placed above all the other class winners in girls. 

12.Winners Dog - The boy who wins the points and has placed above all the class winners in dogs.

13. Best of Winners - The best of Winners Bitch and Winners Dog.  

14.Best of Opposite Sex -Not quite sure how to explain this class, anyone? 

15.Best of Breed - All class winners and finished Champions in the BOB class  compete for this coveted spot. 

16. Reserve WD and WB - Second place to the WD and WB. 

A more detailed accounting of classes, and how the point system works, is on the AKC website.  An AKC Championship requires 15 pts with two majors. 
 

Chapter Six 

~ Conformation and Performance Titles ~

Abbreviations and what they mean

Originally by Cadie Pruss of Acadia Shelties, PA

Titles are often reduced to a bunch of letters. This is a guide to help you understand those letters before and after the dog's name. There are many different registries and organizations that offer titles. This is a guide to AKC titles, followed by ASSA Awards.
 

1.  AKC titles in front of a name are competitive titles. This means the dog needed to defeat other dogs to achieve this title. Dogs are awarded "points" based on how many dogs they beat.

AKC titles behind the name are non-competitive. Dogs perform a prescribed set of exercises and are evaluated against a score. A dog earns "legs" toward the title and after achieving the required number of "legs" is awarded the title. Each "leg" must be awarded by a different judge.

The following are all AKC titles:

Ch. -Champion - The only title available in conformation. Dogs are evaluated against a written standard of perfection. To achieve this title, a dog must win 15 points by defeating other dogs.

DC- Dual Champion. This title can only be used for a dog that is both a breed Champion (Ch.) and a Champion in the event for which the breed was originally bred. In the case of shelties, a Herding Champion (HC) is the other requirement.    This title preceeds the dogs name.